Quality sliding mirror wardrobes at the best prices.
Choosing the number of doors:
I think it is better to design your wardrobe with as few doors as possible, I would recommend you don't put more than 4 doors on any one wardrobe. I can make doors up to 48" (1220) wide.
Assessing what makes a good system
The running gear on my doors are guaranteed for 10 years, this sort of guarantee is not unusual because the running gear on most systems rarely fail in this period, though there are some exceptions. I have made and fitted nothing else other than sliding door wardrobes for over 20 years and removing failed systems was often part of the job, it always seemed to be the same systems that I took out. What differentiates a good system from a bad one is mainly the quality of the frame, this frame needs to grip the mirror/ panel tightly, before you buy any doors you need to check the frame does this, to do this simply get a sample of the frame before you consider making a purchase (I might sound like a bit of an anorak here but it could save you from buying a duff system) simply prise the frame apart with your fingers a poor quality system will bend like a bit of tin, A frame that does this is a system that will not last you very long before the frames become sloppy and loose, they will also dent very easily and one knock with the hoover and your doors had it, They will also bend and warp and you can find your doors rubbing together. Since writing the above, the web sites selling these sort of frames no longer send out a frame samples they send you flat pieces of metal instead....I wonder why?
Always get a sample before you make a purchase, not all doors are the same.
Bottom running gear
The bottom running gear should have bearings, this makes a very significant difference to how the doors glide. Many companies on the internet use wheels without, simply to save themselves a couple of pounds, It takes a lot more effort to open and close these doors.
Top running gear
The top running gear should have rollers, avoid plastic friction guides as they squeak and this can get worse over time not to mention they ware out, some of the doors you find on the internet use these. I use a twin wheel top roller that fits tightly on top of the door (do not protrude above) this means I can make the doors that little bit taller so lessening the problem of ceiling discrepancy, the finished result looks less "gapy" and neater at the top. This is why my doors have a maximum height that is a little less than everyone elses.
Plan your interior carefully for example, if you have three doors plan your interior in thirds and do take into consideration that the doors always overlap each other, so take this into account ie your access will be slightly less than a third, what you don't want is a shelf unit partially hiding behind a door, making it difficult to get to. I would always recommend compartmentising (ok I think I may have made that word up?) your interior using good old fashioned melamine boards this keeps everything together and neat and tidy. The other way to create an interior is to use stanchions or upright beams and your rails and open shelves fit between them, I think this idea is best suited to decorative situations like for pot plants, as an interior for a wardrobe they are not very practical as your clothes will inevitably fall off the sides of the open shelves.
When you fold up clothes you will find they take up about 12" (300mm) of space, this is why I make my shelf units with 12" shelves this keeps your clothes neat and tidy and doesn't waste any space, making a shelf unit half as wide again is just untidy and a waste of space. I make my shelf units with seven shelves giving you six compartments so that you are not stacking your clothes in to high a pile.
I would recommend making your interior shelving no less than 18" Deep.
I would strongly recommend my chromed oval rails which will easily span 48" (1220) without sagging. Round hanging rail is not really fit for the purpose.